How To Lay A Natural Stone Patio

Read this to learn all you need to know about the best way to lay a Natural Stone Patio.  These recommendations apply for all our Sandstone paving products. Please read through before starting your project, as there are some points that only apply to certain products.


Dig out the area to be paved, ensuring adequate fall is allowed for drainage away from any abutting buildings, to ensure water does not stand on paved area after rain.


When using our recommended jointing compound, (see below), it is imperative that a firm, but FREE DRAINING subbase is prepared before laying slabs. This should be 75-100mm of Type 1 Sub Base>> , available from Stoneworld.

Compress into position using a plate-wacker. Failure to do so will result in trapped water underneath the patio resulting in cracking and subsidence.

  1. WHICH WAY UP? When laying our Hand cut or Tumbled Sandstone or Black Limestone Pavers you will notice that there is a graded edge, making one surface larger than the other. For a more uniform surface, it is recommended that these slabs should be laid with the more even, larger surface uppermost. When using our Sawn Paving, the edges are straight, but the underside is calibrated making it obvious which way is meant to be uppermost.



We recommend slabs be laid on a full bed of wet mortar as this enables you to adjust individual slabs allowing for any variations in thickness. At Stoneworld we recommend wet mortar is made using mixed soft sand – a 50/50 mix of soft and sharp sand, and cement at a ratio of 5:1 with adequate water to create a firm but wet rather than damp mortar.  We advise using this particular sand mix to create the ideal medium for your natural stone slabs to be laid on.

Buy our Mixed Soft Sand now>>

Buy Cement now>>

  1. TAMPING INTO POSITION After placement of paving slabs onto the wet mortar bed, they should be tamped into position using a rubber mallet, tapping firmly on each corner whilst checking the level in each direction as you go.

As you position slabs, leave pointing gaps of 10-15mm between each slab.

With Sawn Paving it is possible to reduce the pointing gap to 3-5mm.


Colour & tonal variation will occur in natural products. Therefore when using several project packs, slabs should be blended throughout the project to produce an overall natural appearance by selecting from all crates as the patio is laid.

    When the patio has been laid, it is necessary to fill the pointing gaps. We recommend the use of Resiply for the pointing of all joints in natural stone paving. It creates a permeable joint enabling surface water to drain through – providing the correct sub base has been laid first! (See above).  Having tested all the various methods and materials over the years we find this product to be the most reliable and durable available. Various colours are available and we are happy to advise on the most suitable for your chosen paving.

Find out more about using Resiply>>


Sandstone flags should be pointed with 10-15mm joints between each slab.

Sawn paving can be pointed with 3-5mm joints between each slab.



Porcelain and Limestone Paving

Lay Porcelain and Limestone Paving on a sub base as explained above.

Use a wet mortar mix method  as above

However, please note the following:
To aid adhesion it is necessary to ‘paint’ the back of the slab with a slurry mix before laying.  This should be made from the mortar mix with added PVA.  The addition of PVA is just for the slurry mix not for the main mortar you will be using to lay the patio.

Find out more about laying Porcelain Paving in this blog>>


Travertine Paving
Travertine pavers should be laid butted up and therefore they do not require pointing.

It is possible to lay travertine paving on a sand sub base.

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